Dormant? More Like “Dreaming of Spring” – Why Planting Crape Myrtles in Winter or Early Spring Is Smarter Than You Think

Hello Chilly Gardener!

If you’ve ever stared at a bare crape myrtle in January wondering “Is it dead or just napping?” — welcome to the club. The good news? That leafless, twiggy thing isn’t dead; it’s dormant. And yes, that’s actually the perfect time to plant one.

Here at Southern Charm, we ship A LOT of crape myrtles every season, and the plants that arrive happiest in their new homes are often the ones that went in the ground while still dreaming of spring. Let's go through why dormant planting works, when to do it, and how to make sure your new tree wakes up ready to thrive. Shall we? 😉

Why Dormant Planting Is a Secret Weapon

When crape myrtles are leafless and not actively growing (late fall through early spring), all their energy is focused underground—building roots. Plant them during this quiet phase and they can spend the next few months quietly establishing a strong root system before the heat and humidity of summer arrive. By the time leaves and blooms show up, the tree is already anchored and ready to explode with growth instead of struggling to recover from transplant shock.

In zones 8–10 (most of our Florida and southern customers), winter/early spring planting is ideal. The ground rarely freezes hard enough for long enough to cause problems, and the mild weather lets roots settle in without heat stress. In fact, many of our customers report faster establishment and better first-summer performance when planting in January–March.

Zones 6 & 7: Yes, You Can Plant Dormant — Just Add a Blanket

In colder zones (6 and 7), dormant planting is still fine—crape myrtles are extremely tough and can handle temperatures in the teens without batting an eye (or losing a branch). But late hard freezes after planting can nip tender new roots or young green growth, so a little protection goes a long way.

Here’s what we recommend:

• Plant in late winter/early spring (after the worst freezes have passed but before bud break).
• Mulch heavily (3–4 inches of pine bark or hardwood) around the base to insulate roots.
  
• Water well at planting, then let nature do most of the work until spring rains kick in.

Check out our Growing in Cold Climates for more helpful info. 

Trust me—once established, these trees shrug off cold like it’s nothing. We’ve seen them bounce back beautifully after 15°F nights with nothing more than a good mulch blanket.

Quick Planting Recap (Straight from Planting and Growing)

• Dig a hole twice as wide as the root ball, same depth.
• Plant so the top of the root ball is level with (or slightly above) ground.
• Backfill gently, water deeply, and mulch.
• No fertilizer needed at planting—let roots grow first.
• Water regularly the first season (especially if spring is dry).

One last tip: if you’re planting in late winter, check the forecast. A stretch of mild days followed by a hard freeze is the only real risk—give them a little extra mulch love and they’ll be fine.

So go ahead and plant that bare-root or potted crape myrtle while it’s still napping. It’s not lazy gardening; it’s strategic. Your tree will thank you with bigger blooms and stronger roots come summer.

Got a specific variety in mind or worried about your zone? Drop a comment or hit chat—I’m here with coffee and planting notes.

Happy (dormant) planting!

-Liz

Southern Charm Crape Myrtles