Growing in Cold Climates

What is a Deciduous Hardwood?

A Deciduous Hardwood is a one that loses its leaves every winter and regrows them in spring.

Crape Myrtles, Lagerstroemia Indica and Lagerstroemia Indica x Fauriei, are NOT EVERGREENS.

They will lose their leaves each winter and regrow them in spring. Even if you're in zone 10+ you will notice a definite pause in active growth and leaf drop.

*Dormancy is not only dependent on the ambient air temperature, but hours of daylight as well. *

Deciduous hardwoods, like crape myrtles, are traditionally planted in fall. But crape myrtles will simply do better if they're planted at the right time of year, thus ensuring success.

• If you're in zones 8-10 you can plant any time of year.
• If you're in zones 6 & 7, planting after your last frost in spring (in some cases early summer), is ideal
• If you're in zone 5, you can plant in early summer after the last threat of frost. But keep in mind, if you're in zone 5 (and sometimes zone 6 depending on the severity of the winter), there is a real possibility your plants will die back to the ground over winter and regrow from the roots the following spring.
• If you're in zones 3 or 4 it's just too cold. They WILL die outside. You will have to grow them in pots and bring them into a sheltered location over winter.

Planting in Zones 8-10

• If planted while in an active state of growth (spring & summer, growing leaves/flowers), plant in full sun (6hrs+), water 2-3 times a week for the first 4-6 weeks. Then decrease watering to once a week or as needed.
• If planting while dormant, thoroughly water once initially and keep the soil light moist over winter. Natural precipitation is normally plenty in winter, but if you find yourself in a dry spell you can certainly add some moisture. Just remember, crape myrtles need good drainage.

Planting in Zones 6 & 7

• Spring planting in these growing zones is ideal. Just as soon as the soil is workable and you're not expecting a hard freeze, go ahead and plant. A light frost won't hurt them.
• If you're in zone 7, you CAN plant in fall, but you'll need to take extra precautions the first winter, including mulching heavily and covering, just to err on the side of caution. Better safe than sorry!
• There IS the possibility that your crape myrtles will die back to the ground over the first winter, especially in zone 6. Don't Panic! The roots are most certainly still alive and will send up new shoots in spring IF this happens. It's far more common than not for the top growth to survive the first winter. But we do want to make you aware that this IS a possibility, thus making your crape myrtle a perennial.

Planting in Zone 5--We won't lie, it's tough growing in zone 5.

• You MUST plant after your last frost to give them plants ample time to establish themselves before winter.
• Fall planting just doesn't have a high enough success rate to recommend. We sincerely want you to succeed. And as a knowledgeable grower you are far more likely to succeed.
• *Winterization the first year is vital! *

Planting in Zones 3 & 4--It's just not worth it

• Don't bother planting outside. They're going to die. It's simply too cold. Crape myrtles are tough, just not THAT tough!
• You CAN, however, grow them in pots. Once they drop their leaves, have gone dormant for winter and you're expecting your first hard frost, bring them into a sheltered location. An unheated garage or shed is ideal. Don't not bring them inside where it's warm: they may emerge from dormancy too early.
• Some nurseries advertise that certain varieties are suitable for growing in zones 3-5. We have found this to be unequivocal false. It is true, you can grow them in pots (see above), but growing in the ground simply doesn't work long term.

Plants in the Ground

1. Discontinue all fertilization in August. Don't worry, they'll still flower.
2. Once you start to notice fall colors and seed pods drying and turning brown, decrease watering to once a week or less. This gives the plant a chance to harden off before winter.
3. Wait until you get your first freeze to help them shed leaves and become completely dormant.
4. Once dormant and you're expecting a long, hard freeze, go ahead and mulch. Then add a healthy layer of mulch 4-6in+ thick. Any kind is fine: pine straw, fallen leaves, cypress mulch, etc.
5. Now it's time to cover. The purpose is to protect the plant from the wind and snow. Before you cover, prune your tree, it will make it much easier to cover. You can use a number of things as covers. Burlap is traditional, but you can use anything from specialty plant covers, large plastic trash cans and even bubble wrap! Cover the plant from top of the branches all the way down to the mulch.

That's it! Let them sleep for the winter.

Plants in Pots or Hanging Baskets

1. Discontinue all fertilization in August. Don't worry, they'll still flower.
2. Once you start to notice fall colors and seed pods drying and turning brown, decrease watering to once a week or less. This gives the plant a chance to harden off before winter.
3. Wait until you get your first freeze to help them shed leaves and become completely dormant.
4. Once dormant and you're expecting a long, hard freeze, move them into a sheltered location like a shed of an unheated garage. Do not bring them into an area that's considerably warmer than outside (such as your living room, etc). This may encourage them to emerge from dormancy early, which can cause problems.
5. Since the plants will be sheltered, you don't need to cover them or mulch them. You certainly can if you'd like, it's not going to hurt them one bit.
6. Keep the soil lightly moist. This may equate to watering once a week or every couple weeks depending on the dryness of the air. The idea is that you don't want the soil to separate from the sides of the pot. If it does start to separate it will be difficult to rehydrate. In this case, place the pot in a pan of water to allow the soil to rehydrate slowly on its own.
7. Prune any time. Give them a nice shape and allow them to sleep for the winter.

Removing the Covers

• Remove the plant covers and/or take the plants out of a sheltered location after the threat of a hard freeze has passed.
• Water thoroughly and keep the soil lightly moist. They'll wake up right on time.
• If your plants have already started to bud under the covers and have emerged from dormancy while they were in their winter shelter, don't panic! That's perfectly fine. It just gives them a head start on spring.
• Once you remove the covers and/or placed your plants outside in a sunny spot, you can apply dormant oil as a pest and disease control preventative.

Once your crape myrtles have 1-3in+ of new growth, begin a regular Fertilization regimen. They'll reward the extra TLC with an explosion of summer flowers.

I've Tried to Cover my Plants, but they Still Die Back to the Roots! HELP!

Sometimes Mother Nature throws us an extra cold winter. This can be hard on young crape myrtles. It's time to step up our covering game.

• Make a frame around each plant you intend to cover. You can use an old tomato cage, some chicken wire, whatever you have hand.
• Fill the cage with fallen leaves, straw or even packing material. The idea is to create a thick layer of insulation.
• You can even go one step farther and cover the whole cage with a trash bag or any number of specialty plant covers.

This is a technique northern growers use for tropical plants such as bananas, pineapples and guavas, just to name a few.

*Lagerstroemia Floribunda and Lagerstroemia Speciosa can ONLY be grown in Zones 9-10+. They are Tropical plants thus they stay green all year. They WILL DIE BQACK TO THE GROUND if exposed to a Freeze.*