Frequently Asked Questions...even some not so frequent....

You can most certainly combine different colors of crape myrtles to make a plant that will have blooms of different colors, giving your a spectacular show all summer long.  It's amazingly easy, straight forward and the results are stunning.

Check out our Combining Crape Myrtles Page for more detailed information and instructions.

There are a couple tricks that make this extremely easy. 

First, you can take your chosen varieties and plant them in the same hole with the root balls touching.  The result will be a multi-trunk plant that blooms different colors.

Second, you can take them out of the pot and loosen the soil around the roots.  Lay them down on a flat surface and tie their trunks together with jute twine every 6in or so, making sure the trunks are in contact with each other.  Then plant the bound crape myrtles together in the same hole, staking them up if necessary.  Over time they will fuse into a single trunk tree that has different color flowers.

There is no need for complex grafting on one basic root stock.  You could, if you were so inclined of course, we've just never thought the result was worth the time and effort when it's so easy to just plant them together.

The possibilities are endless.  We're constantly experimenting with different flower colors, foliage colors, bark colors, leaf colors and shapes.  So far my favorite consists of large standard trees of 6 colors.  It has two shades of red, two shades of purple and two different whites.  It was the simplest of methods, we just planted them in the same hole with the root balls touching.  

Most people like to stick to 2-4 different colors.  The most popular being 3 colors, as 3 is an odd number and considered lucky in many horticultural circles.   

First and foremost you should choose the correct varieties.  Varieties need to have similar mature sizes, growth patterns and growth rates.  You'll find grouping miniatures with miniatures, dwarfs with dwarfs, mediums with mediums, standards with standards, and micro minis with micro minis is the best place to begin to combine colors.  For example, the dwarfs Hopi pink, Acoma white and Tonto watermelon red make a great combo.  They all get about 8-10ft tall, grow nice and thick (making cross over branches which mix colors nicely), and grow very fast.  The colors are also strikingly different, really making them pop.

But let's say you wanted a tall Twilight purple, a dwarf pink Hopi and a miniature Pixie White.  The first year you might (and that's a big might), see a white flower on the Pixie White.  But the Hopi and Twilight are going to grow fast and eventually shade it out.  And then as time goes by, the Twilight will outgrow the Hopi and shade it out as well, preventing it from getting enough sun to bloom.  So ultimatly you'll end up with a large purple Twilight. 

A better combination would be a purple Twilight, a pink Biloxi and a white Sarah's Favorite.  That way they would grow at the same rate and you would be able to enjoy all three colors indefinitely.  

If you have a mature size and colors in mind, don't hesitate to Contact Us for recommended varieties.

Nope.  Water the same as you normally would.  Fertilize accordingly.  

The first winter, prune them all to give them a matching shape and size.  Then once they emerge from dormancy the following spring, fertilize and water as usual.  They WILL use slightly more water and fertilizer, as technically separate plants, especially when they are becoming established.  So adjust accordingly (meaning up the fertilizer and watering a tad).  Once their root balls and/or trunks have combined you can treat them as a single tree.  

Not YET.  They are, however, well on the way.  The main issue is that everyone wants something different.  Which is fantastic, we love seeing all the color combos growers have come up with over the years.  We just need to narrow down some of the favorites.

Should we have 3 shades of purple in miniature, dwarf, medium and standards?  Or perhaps pinks, or lavenders, or reds?  Should we have have strikingly differnt colors in each mature size group?  The combinations seem endless.

So at this point we're happy to help people choose the right vareities for their own ideal combos.  But rest assured, pre-combined plants are on the way.

Absolutely.  We may be a little biased (ok, a lot biased), but some of the most beautiful bonsai we've ever seen are crape myrtles.  They grow fast, are the most prune-able plants you can imagine and reliably bloom.  Not to mention they can live 100yrs+.  So yes, they're awsome bonsai specimens.  

In fact, miniature crape myrtles are often refered to as "instant bonsai."  They're tiny by their very nature, have very interesting trunks with exfoliating bark, come in all sorts of flower and leaf colors and are still a fast growing deciduous hardwood.

Any of them really.  Miniatures naturally have the smallest leaves and flower clusteres so they are always a favorite.  But you could take the fastest growing lagerstroemia indica, Basham's Party Pink, and turn it into a spectacular bonsai.  Crape myrtles are some of the fastest growing, if not THE fastest growing, deciduous hardwoods around.  They're also quite forgiving when it comes to neglect (of which I am guilty, I'll admit it), over pruning and just about any other abuse you could throw at them.

The same way you would any other deciduous hardwood tree.  

• Find a nice dish, one with good drainage
• Choose your crape myrtle, cut it back, prune the roots and plant in your dish using bonsai akadama (although not particularly required)
• Place in a sunny spot (not too much sun at first, it will dry out before it has a chance to recover)
• Keep the growing medium moist
• Train and prune the new branches as you see fit

The sky is the limit.

Like any other bonsai, refresh the akadama every 3-5 years.  

Very lightly fertilize using a balanced fertilizer with trace minerals.  Crape myrtles grow fast, but in this instance we don't want them to grow too fast.  A tiny bit is going to go a long way.

Sure.  Weed cloth around the plant will not only prevent pesky weeds from popping up, it will also help retain moisture.  Note* If adding a side dressing of fertilizer throughout the active growing season, try to use something water soluble that will reach the roots.  A granular fertilizer over mulch andor weed cloth will have a tendendency to stick around the top and not reach the roots in a timely manner.  They'll still work, it will just be much slower.

Crape myrtles aren't that picky.  But it's important to understand that they like a LITTLE BIT OF FERTILIZER ON A REGULAR BASIS during the active growing season.  Specific fertilization needs will depend on your individual area of course.  It's best to contact a local nursery that knows your native soil conditions well to get EXACTLY what you need.

Having said that, use a well balanced all-purpose fertilizer cotaining trace minerals.  All-purpose water soluble Miralce Gro (the blue stuff), is great for just about everywhere.  But it can get pricy if you have a lot of plants.  So you can go with the good ole tried and true 10-10-10, 15-15-15 or even 20-20-20.  Just make sure they contain trace minerals (namely iron, magnesium, maganese and sulphur, to name a few).  They're available in up to 50lb bags and will be extremely cost efficient in the long run.

There's no single catch all answer to this one.  It depends on the size of your plant, when it was planted, what type of fertilizer is used, your soil conditions, etc.

If using a slow release fertilizer such as Osmocote (3, 6, 8 month release), then follow the instructions that came with the product.  Osmocote style fertilizers recommend mixing into the top few inches of the soil, but as long at it's under the weed cloth and mulch we've found it works just as well.

If using immediate release fertilizer, such as 10-10-10 or All-purpose water soluble Miracle Gro, then apply 1 tablespoon+(depending on the age and size of your plant), every 2-4 weeks during the active growing season.

Absolutely.  They're probably the easiest way to fertilize your plants.  Available in numerous brands and formulations.  Choose one for deciduous hardwoods or ornamental trees.  There is one important fact we've come to realize over the years when it comes to fertilizer stakes: they last far longer than advertized.  For example, a fertilizer stake that says it will feed for 6 months can take a year to fully dissolve, thus not providing the ideal amount of nutrients for your plants.  And as crape myrtles like their fertilizer applied on a regular basis, this release can be a little on the slow side.  As a remedy, we've found that adding an extra fertilzer stake compensates for this slow dissolve and you'll have much better results.

Yes.  Liquids, such as all-purpose water soluble Miralce Gro (the blue stuff), are immediate release and you'll see the fastest results.  We recommend starting out slowly: dissolve 1-2 tablespoons in a couple gallons of water and apply.  Give them two weeks, stand back and watch the new growth take off.  Although you'll see the fastest results with liquids, it's easy to over do it.  So start off with a little bit at a time, give them a couple weeks, observe the results and augment your routine as you see fit.

Also, liquid fertilizers can be sprayed directly onto the foliage of the plant.  Crape myrtles don't absorb as much fertilizer through their leaves as some other deciduous hardwoods (they tend to have thick leaves that limit transpiration, another attribute that makes them drought resistant), but they do absorb some.  So, why not give it a shot?  It's going to fall down where the feeder roots are anyway.

The same goes with liquids such as 10-10-10, 15-15-15 and 20-20-20.  Start off slow and work your way up.

Yep.  These are a great, inexpensive option, especially if you have a lot of plants.  Like most fertilizers, start off using a couple tablespoons lightly sprinkled around the drip line of the plant.  These are immediate release fertilizers so you should see results within a couple weeks.  

Note If you're using something like 10-10-10, that means there is 10% nitrogen, 10% phosphorus and 10% potassium (with about 1-2% trace minerals).  This means that the other 70% is filler and will not provide nutrition for your plants.  As a result, you're going to see residual granular fertilizer long after the active ingredients have been used.  They can be visible around the tree or or on the mulch for over a year.  Don't be fooled, you can reapply within 2-4 weeks without burn and with fantastic results.

Begin fertilization in spring after you see an inch or two or new green growth.  The plants are in an active state of growth and are ready to absorb the nutrients you apply.  If you fertilize before they emerge from dromancy the plants will not be in an active state of growth and the fertilzer will drain right through the soil.  So don't waste your money.

Lightly fertilize every 2-4 weeks throughout the active growing season in your area.

The answer to this question is location specific.  But as a general rule of thumb, discontinue fertilization in August to give them a chance to tough up, or "harden off," before winter.  This allows the green wood to become brown and woody in preparation for winter.  Don't worry, they'll still flower.

This is actually an interesting question.  Apply the fertilizer of choice around the "drip line" of the plant.  The "drip line" is the outter most circumference of the canopy, or where the water will drip off the leaves when it rains.  Most feeder roots for most trees are found here.  Crape myrtles, however, are a little different.  Yes, feeding around the drip line of a crape myrtle is perfect.  But the feeder roots of a crape myrtle can grow 3x's the width of the canopy!  This extensive root system allows them to be extremely drought ressitant.  As a bonus, when you're fertilizing your lawn, you'll unknowingly be fertilizing your crape myrtles too.

This isn't a common question, but it might benefit you to know the answer.  Crape myrtles absorb the most fertilizer when they are slightly moist.  So a couple days after a good rain is perfect.  If you apply your fertilize when they're bone dry the plants will be focusing on absorbing moisture before fertilizer.  If you fertilize when they've just been soaked by a good rain, they won't be absorbing much at all as they're full of water.  Honestly, you can fertilze any time and they WILL absorb some of the nutrients. We've found for maximum benefit, best bang for your buck  and biggest payout for your hard work to fertilize your crape myrtles while lightly damp.

A bloom booster is simply a fertilizer with a high amount of phosphorus.  Example: 10-50-10.  That forumulation doesn't have to be exact, just make sure the middle number is higher than the other numbers.  Apply the bloom booster once in early spring and again at the begining of summer in place of normal fertilization.  Your crape myrtles will be LOADED with flowers.  Also, if you happen to have an older tree that likes to set flower buds, but doesn't like to bloom (highly annoying), the bloom booster will fix this as well.  A quick search for "crape myrtle food" will yield a Carl Poole granular product for about $16.  This is a great bloom booster and goes a long way.

Although crape myrtles are heavy feeders, it is possible to over fertilize them.  The most common symptom of over fertilization is burnt leaf tips.   Leaf tips will appear brown and sometimes even crispy.  If you see this happening, discontinue fertilization and just water.  It will flush out any excess fertilizer and help remove any accumlated fertilizer salts.  Your plant isn't going to die, it's just stressed.  It will recover just fine.

• There can be a number of causes for this.  One is accumulation of fertilizer salts.  Fertilizers contain salts.  When we inadvertantly over fertilize we may not see damaged leaves, but we won't see any progress either.  This could be caused by accumulation of fertilizer salts.  Use only fresh water for the next 4-6 weeks to flush their systems and they should be ready to start all over.
• Another cause may be incorrect pH.  Crape myrtles grow best when the pH 5.5-6.5.  If the soil is either too acid or too alkaline the plant won't be able to absorb any fertilizer, thus stalling or stunting it's growth.  Adjust the pH and you're all set.  
• Lack of trace minerals can cause a whole lot of nothing to happen.  Sure, you're giving them the big three: nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium, but they can't utilize them without the presence of trace minerals.  So make sure your fertilizer contains trace minerals.

The first symptom, that manifests fairly quickly, is the curling and burning of leaf tips.  If you fertilize your plant and the next morning it's leaf tips are curled or have brown, crumbling edges then you've over fertilized.  But fear not, it should recover just fine.  Even if it completely defoliates, it should bounce back.  First, remove any granular or visable fertilizer from the base of the plant.  Then thoroughly water.  Thoroughly water 2-3 times a week for the next 4-6 weeks.  This will flush out any excessive nutrients turned toxic.  Again, it may loose all of its leaves.  Don't panic.  It will start to grow new ones within a week of two, depending on the severity.  

If it's mild fertilizer burn, you may see new leaves that are oddly shaped.  This isn't a problem.  Just use only water for the next month and the plant will be perfectly fine.

It varies.  Some winters are mild, some are God awful cold.  The Farmer's Almanac has the most accurate and up to date database regarding average first and last frosts.

Check out The Farmer's Almanac page, enter your zip code and find your average last frost date.

Absolutely.  Crape myrtles do great in pots, which is why they are so popular as a bonsai.  Choose a container that has good drainage: you should be able to see water run out the bottom of the pot.  Fill with a quality peat and bark based potting soil (all purpose Miracle Gro potting soil, Sta Green potting soil, etc).  Do not use garden soil as it's too thick and will not drain properly.  After planting, add a couple inches of mulch (any kind), and place it in a sunny spot.  You will need to water your plant every 2-3 days during the active growing season.  Keep in mind the only nutrients and water potted crape myrtles get is from YOU.  For this reason it's even more important to water and fertilize your potted crape myrtles than those planted in the ground.   

Use a 3-5 gallon pot for miniatures and a 5-10 gallon pot for dwarfs.  Make sure the pot has good drainage. You should be able to see the water run out from the bottom of the pot.  If you choose to grow a medium or dwarf crape myrtle in a pot, use something much larger and heavier.  This is not for he plant itself but to provide enough weight that the plant does not blow over in the wind.

We recommend growing any miniature or dwarf in a pot.  They won't get so large that they become cumbersome to handle.  You can grow mediums or standards in pots as well.  Just make sure your pot is heavy/large enough that a gust of wind won't blow it over.  

Yes.  But unless you're planning to use them as bonsai specimens, you'll need a large, heavy container with good drainage.  Medium and standard crape myrtles grow extremely large and fast.  The heavier the pot, the less likely it will be to blow over with a gust of wind.  You also have the option of growing these varieties in a large pot with good draiange and keeping them pruned smaller for ease of maintenance.  Pot size for these would be 20 gallons+.

Use a quality peat moss and bark based potting soil such as all purpose Miracle Gro or Sta Green.  The brand isn't as important as it's ability to drain properly.  Do not use garden soil or pure compost.  It's just too thick and won't drain.  Also, do not use pure peat moss.  

Miniatures that weep are perfect for hanging baskets.  Varieties such as Sacramento, Creole, Bourbon Street, New Orleans, Mardi Gras and even Pixie White are perfect. 

You can also grow other more unique miniatures that have a more compact upright growth pattern such as Ruby Bjou™, Blush Bjou™, Snowy Bijou™, Crimson Bijou™, Ochid Bijou™, Chickasaw and even Pokomoke.

Use what you have on hand.  You can always up size or down size later.  A nice start would be something with a 12-18in diameter that's 8-12in deep.  It can be solid plastic, ceramic, or even fiber.  Just make sure it has good drainage.  

That depends on the size of your basket and imagination.  A hanging basket 18in wide and 12in deep can easily hold 3 miniature crape myrtles.  They can all be the same color, making a thicker plant sooner, or different colors for a multi-colored certerpiece.  

Yes.  You can always start a single crape myrtle in a pot, planter, hanging basket or bonsai.  With proper care they WILL grow.  

All crape myrtles in pots, planters, hanging baskets or bonsai need full sun, 6hrs+ for them to reach their full potential.

There's several reasons your plant may be wilting.  First, it's dry.  Crape myrtles planted in pots need to be thoroughly watered 2-3 times a week.  Second, it's too wet.  I know it sounds odd but wilting can be caused by too much OR too little water.  Make sure your pot has good drainage by making more holes in the bottom of the pot and you're all set.  Third, the pot, hence the roots, are getting too hot.  If you place your pot on a hot surface such as concrete that gets full sun all day, the pot and the soil inside the pot, is going to become extremely hot.  Move it to a location that gets some shade or to a spot that's not on a hot surface and your plant should perk right up.  

Note: Normal temperatures for a crape myrtle in the ground are not as extreme as one in a pot.  The soil in the pot will be hotter than the soil in the ground in summer and colder than the soil in the ground in winter.  Knowing this simple fact is going to help you in all your horticulural endeavors.

Thoroughly water 2-3 times per week when they are in an active state of growth.  Make sure the pot, planter or hanging basket has good drainage.  They need more frequent watering in a pot than if ground moisture was available to them.

Excellent question.  That depends on your location. 

If you're in zones 8-10, then you need to do a whole lot of nothing.  Ok, just one thing...water just enough to stop the soil separating from the sides of the pot.  Water once every week or so if there's no rain.  Increase watering once you see new spring growth.

If you're in zone 7, move it to a sheltered location if you're expecting temps in the low teens.  Keep the soil lightly moist, making sure it doesn't separate from the side of the pot.  After your last frost, move it back outside and begin regular watering.

If you're in zone 5 or 6, let them go completlely dormant, move them into an unheated garage or shed and keep the soil lightly moist.  After your last frost in spring, move it back outside and begin regular watering.  They'll wake up right on time.

Note: Remember, the soil in a pot will get colder than the soil in the ground.  So a little extra care will go a long way.

Water exactly as you would if it were planted in the ground.  Crape myrtles like a little bit of fertilizer on a regular basis.  See our Fertilization FAQ section or our Fertilization page for helpful information.

Why, yes!  Besides having a container that has plenty of drainage, the right potting soil and a sunny spot, there's one more simple trick you can employ.  Rotate it!  Every one or two weeks, rotate it about 90 degrees or so.  That way the sunlight will hit all sides and the flower clusters will develop evenly all the way around the plant.  Rotating the plant is often forgotten (I am extremely guilty of this), so one side becomes flush with a load of flowers while the other is a tad on the naked side.  By the time I realize it I'm too embarassed to rotate it.  But we shouldn't be.  Once the bare side is exposed to sunlight it will flush out with new growth in less than two weeks.  It can even start to set flowers in that short amount of time.  

All plants are shipped in a Deep Square pot, 4.19in diameter x 4.88in deep, 1.15quart plastic pot. Actual plant size and width depends on the variety.  For example, a miniature plant may be approxamately 6"-1ft tall and wide, while a tree may be 4ft+ tall and less than a foot wide.

It depends on the vareity, time of year, new crop vs. older crop, etc.  Some dwarfs simply grow more slowly that others.  For example, Victor's grow slow to moderately fast so they typically range from 2-4ft tall when shipped.  Tontos however, grow extremely fast and often need to be trimmed to 4ft to fit in our shipping boxes.  We always try to pick the best, largest healthiest plants we possibly can. 

If we wouldn't buy it, we won't sell it to you!  ....something about The Golden Rule....

If we have the choice between a 4ft+ plant that's on the thin side vs. a 3ft plant that's thick and vigorous, we're going to choose the 3ft plant.  Experience has taught us you'll be MUCH happier with the shorter plant in the long run.

First, please keep in mind that miniature crape myrtles are....well...MINIATURES.  Their small, compact size is what make them so incredibly desirable.  But, like all crape myrtles, they will vary depending on growth rate, age, variety etc.  Typically miniatures range from 6in-2ft tall (we do have exceptions that need to be trimmed to 4ft to fit in the shipping boxes.)  We always try to pick the best, largest healthiest plants we possibly can. 

If we wouldn't buy it ourselves, we won't sell it to you!  ....something about The Golden Rule....

If we have the choice between a 2ft+ plant that's on the thin, scraggly side vs. an 8in plant that's thick and vigorous, we're going to choose the 8in plant.  Experience has taught us you'll be MUCH happier with the shorter plant in the long run.

It depends on the variety, time of year, new crop vs. older crop, etc.  Most mediums, like Natchez, almost always need to br trimmed to fit in our 4ft shipping boxes.  But others, like Catawba, simply grow a little more slowly.  Since Catawba's grow moderately fast they typically range from 2-4ft tall when shipped.  We always try to pick the best, largest healthiest plants we possibly can. 

If we wouldn't buy it, we won't sell it to you!  ....something about The Golden Rule....

If we have the choice between a 4ft+ plant that's on the thin side vs. a 3ft plant that's thick and vigorous, we're going to choose the 3ft plant.  Experience has taught us you'll be MUCH happier with the shorter plant in the long run.

The average standard (tree), crape myrtle grows like a weed.  We're forever having to trim them back to 3ft here at the nursery.  One day it will be 3ft, and the next week it will have topped 5ft already.  But as always, it depends on the variety, time of year, new crop vs. older crop, etc.  And there are always exceptions to the rules.  For example, Carolina Reds grow moderately slow, so they're normally around 2-3ft+ tall.   Basham's Party Pink however, grow extremely fast and almost always need to be trimmed to 4ft to fit in our shipping boxes.  We always try to pick the best, largest healthiest plants we possibly can. 

If we wouldn't buy it, we won't sell it to you!  ....something about The Golden Rule....

If we have the choice between a 4ft+ plant that's on the thin side vs. a 3ft plant that's thick and quite vigorus, we're going to choose the 3ft plant.  Experience has taught us you'll be MUCH happier with the shorter plant in the long run.

Someone DID cut off the top of your tree.  Why in the world would we do such a heinous thing?  Well, to fit the silly thing in the box.  Some plants we can bend, and we certainly try to do that so you receive a taller plant.  But most plants would break during shipping.  So opposed to an ugly break, we give them a quick prune.  Believe it or not, this is actually very good for them.  We do it here at the nursery on a regular basis.  A pruned crape myrtle will usually branch where each cut was made.  So you can expect your tree to branch and become much thicker and fuller over the next couple months in the active growing season.  And since crape myrtles only flower on new growth, the new branches that will grow will have flower clusters.  So it's really a win-win for everyone, especially the plants.  

Spacing depends on the look you're going for.  For example, if you would like a nice thick hedge, border or ground cover plant them 18in-24in apart.  If you would like a more individual plant look, then plant them 3-4ft+ apart.  Keep in mind the size your crape myrtle will be when it reaches maturity. Each plant has it's "Mature Size" listed to help you plan your perfect landscape effect.

Note Exact plant spacing depends a lot on the variety, growth pattern and your desired look.

Plant spacing really depends on the look you're going for.  Many people like to use dwarf crape myrtles (maturing from 6-12ft), for a privacy hedge.  In this instance, most dwarfs can be planted 4-6ft apart.  For a more individual plant look, plant them 6-10ft+ apart.

Note Spacing depends on the variety, it's growth pattern and you're desired end result.  For example, Victor's have a very upright narrow growth pattern and would need to be planted about 3-4ft apart for them to grow together nicely.  While  Hopi's get very thick very quickly, so you can plant them 6ft apart and have a very thick privacy hedge surprizingly fast!

These plants mature much taller than the dwarf or miniature plants, and as a result need more room.  Mediums can be used for privacy hedges, to line properties or diveways and as shade trees.  For privacy, plant them 8ft apart and let them grow naturally.  They'll grow together nicely and privide a large privacy screen. 

To line a driveway, plant them 4-6ft from the driveway itself and about 8-12ft apart from each other.  Although crape myrtles have non-invasive roots, you don't want to be hitting branches every time you drive by.  The spacing from the driveway will allow them to grow and begin to stretch their canopies over the driveway after they're tall enough to not be hit by passing vehicles.  If you don't have the room to plant them that far from the driveway itself, that's ok.  You just may be finding yourself trimming them back while young so they won't hit your vehicle.  Keep in mind the size your crape myrtle will be when it reaches maturity. Each plant has it's "Mature Size" listed to help you plan your perfect landscape effect.

Note Again, exact spacing will depend on the variety, growth pattern and the look you're going for.  But these are pretty good rules of thumb and apply to the vast majority of medium crape myrtles.

Standards are the large tree-type crape myrtles used for shade.  They're not typically used for privacy as they will have large exposed trunks.  But they're great for lining driveways and properties.  Like the mediums, plant the standards about 6-8ft from the driveway itself and about 10ft+ apart from each other.  This will allow them to grow vertically without scraping your vehicles with its lower limbs and develop a nice shaded canopy over the driveway.  At a 10ft spacing, the canopies will grow together.  For a more individual plant look, place them 15ft+ from each other.  Keep in mind the size your crape myrtle will be when it reaches maturity. Each plant has it's "Mature Size" listed to help you plan your perfect landscape effect. 

Note Different vareities have different growth rates and patterns.  But as a general rule of thumb, these spacing recommendations are pretty spot on.

Yes.  All crape myrtles have non-invasive roots, so they're not going to harm your foundation.  THIS IS EXACTLY WHY THEY'RE SO POPULAR IN PARKING LOT LANDSCAPES.  Just keep in mind, for a nice straight, full plant it will need sunlight all around it.  So if you planted a dwarf, medium or standard 2ft from your house it's going to lean away towards the sun at an angle.  You CAN, however, plant miniatures right next to a home/wall etc.  Their small stature and generally compact growing pattern will not effect if/how it leans (you won't be able to tell anyway), and they will not harm your foundation.

Note Even though crape myrtles have non-invasive roots, you may find yourself with a 60yr old plant that's starting to push up the sidewalk foundation.  This is rare, but it does happen.  It's also fixable.  So drop us an email with your individual situation and we'll be happy to help.

The short answer is yes.  All crape myrtles have non-invasive roots.  In the case of a pool, the roots are not going to go through the concrete to reach the water.  It's just not going to happen.  BUT, when they flower, those spent flowers will fall into the pool and may clog your filter.  (Although they are very pretty floating on the top).  So if you plan on having your new crape myrtle inside a pool enclosure, keep an eye on the filter when the flowers start to fall. 

Crape myrtles will not harm your septic tank.  They're not going to burrow their way into any pipes.  Most drain fields are required to be 3ft+ below ground.  The root system of a crape myrtle, although vast, are very shallow (less than 3ft).  So they'll grow over your drain field, absorb what moisture they can, and keep going.  It is not recommended that you plant your new crape myrtle directly over your septic tank.  Eventually it's going to have to be drained, so you'll need to move it to allow access to the lid of the tank.  It is also not recommended you plant them directly over your drian field.  Eventually the drain field will need to be maintained, thus the plant will have to be removed.  You CAN plant them next to a drain field.  Any maintenance on the drain field resulting in the cutting of the crape myrtle's roots will actually encourage new growth and revitilize the plant. 

Yes.  The root system of a crape myrtle will expand 3x's the width of the canopy.  This makes them an ideal species to help prevent erosion.  

Yes.  If you're expecting extreme wind within the first 8 weeks or so after planting, staking it up will help keep it upright.   Once it's established it will flex just fine.

Here in Florida we get lots of hurricanes and strong stroms (imagine that).  We've seen 30ft trees bend nearly in half with a good gust of wind.  We've also seen all the leaves completely blown off a plant.  We've even seen them uprooted and leaning all the way over on their side.  We've seen giant branches broken off too.  The point is crape myrtles are flexible and can withstand a lot. 

The large trees that bend will correct themselves and grow toward the sun, straightening up within a month or so.  The plants with no leaves will start growing new ones within a week or two.  The plants that have been uprooted, we stand them back up, put some soil around them, stake them upright if needed, and they recover just fine within a month or so.  As for the broken branches (which can happen with the sheer weight of the flowers), just cut them off.  It will branch where the cut was and make and flower all over again.

See our Planting Page for all the infromation you'll need for successful planting and growing.

Use any quality peat moss and bark based potting soil.  Potting soil has excellent drainage and will give your plants the best head start.  Most pre-mixed potting soils already have slow-release fertilize  in them.  If yours does not, it would benefit your plants to add a teaspoon of slow release Osmocote to your mix when planting.  Do not use garden soil. It's just too heavy and will retain too much water.

All-Purpose Miracle Gro Potting Soil is great for all native soil types and is readily available.  Sta-Green Potting Soil works just as well (normally less expensive).

When it comes to crape myrtles, there's really no such thing as "root bound."  This is one of the reasons they're so popular as bonsai specimens. SiImply loosen their roots when planting in their new home.

For each plant, dig a hole about 1-ft-2ft wide and deep.  Discard that soil and replace it with a peat-based potting soil.  Do not use garden soil as it's just too dense and will not drain properly.

Most store bought potting soils contain fertilizer, but not a lot.  You always have the option of mixing in a slow release fertilizer such as Osmocote (3, 6 or 8 month release is fine), to give them an extra boost.  Use about about 1 tablespoon per plant.  While not absolutely necessary, this will help your plants get off to a great head start if your native soil is less than ideal.

That's great.  By all means use it.  Most store bought potting soils contain fertilizer, but it's normally not much.  You have the option of adding a slow release fertilizer such as Osmocote (about a tablespoon per plant will do), or side dressing with an immediate release fertilizer (such as good ole 10-10-10 or All-Purpose water soluble Miracle Gro, the blue stuff), during the active growing season.

That depends on your hole size.  A large 64 quart bag of potting soil will be plenty to plant 3+ crape myrtles.  That's for holes that are about 1 and a half feet wide and deep.  Dig your hole, discard that soil and replace it all the way to the top with the new potting soil.  Make it level with the ground.  Plant you new crape myrtle and pack the soil firmly around it. After adding mulch and water the soil is going to settle and be even with your native soil.

It's always a good idea to mulch a newly planted crape myrtle to retain moisture.  Any kind is fine really, including pine bark and straw, cypress mulch, just about anything you can find.  Even fallen leaves around your home.  Again, the idea is to retain moisture.  Just try to stay away from rocks and other heat absorbing materials.  These will over heat the roots and any water you may apply will evaporate before it even gets a chance to reachs. the root.

Mulch is applied to retain moisture and prevent weed growth.  During the first 6-8 weeks after planting this will help keep the roots lightly moist, which is ideal when they are become established.  After that, mulch is not required.  Although many people like to maintain a layer of mulch to keep weeds at bay and improve overall landscape apearance.  

For intial planting in spring and summer, a 2-3in layer of mulch is plenty.  This is more than enough to retain moisture.  Avoid the "volcano" method.  This refers to the pratice of piling up mulch several inches up the trunk of the plant, giving it a pyramid look.  Although crape myrtles are particualrly resistant to fungal issues, the excessive moisture retention around the base of the trunk may cause problems.  So make your layer of mulch nice and flat.

Sure!  Weed cloth around the plant will not only prevent pesky weeds from popping up, they'll also help retain moisture.  Note* If adding a side dressing of fertilizer throughout the active growing season, try to use something water soluble that will reach the roots.  A granular fertilizer over mulch and weed cloth will have a tendendency to stick around the top and not reach the roots in a timely manor.  They'll still work, it will just be much more slowly.

If your new crape myrtle has loads of roots in the pot (all good ones do), then you certainly have the option of loosening them and spreading them out.  As our grandma's used to say "tickle the roots.!"  Loosening the roots will give them a head start on establishing new feeder roots.  BUT, unlike some other plants, this is not required.  You can stick that silly plant directly in the ground as-is.  It's going to spread and grow new feeder roots no matter what.

Congratulations! You have a healthy, vigorous plant ready to go in the ground.  We normally give them a little root prune before they leave the nursery to make them easier for you to remove from the pot.  But if there are roots hanging from the bottom of the pot it's certainly no big deal.  Turn the plant and pot upside down in your hand, give the pot a little squeeze and gentle tug until she's free of the pot.  Plant following the Growing Instructions.

All crape myrtles do the best in full sun, which is generally described as 6hrs+ per day.  So as long as your plants receive 6hrs+ throughout the day, which can be a combination of morning and afternoon sun, they'll be able to reach their full potential.  As a general rule, if sun-loving grass does well, so will crape myrtles.  

If you plant them in the shade or partial shade they will usually live.  But you won't be as happy with them.  They'll tend to lean towards the sun, be thin, leggy and won't produce very many flowers.

Note Different areas receive different amounts of sun at different times of year.  In winter you may have a spot that's fully shaded, but that same spot will be in full sun over the summer months.  Since crape myrtles are dormant over winter and do not need sunlight, this would be an ideal place to plant them. 

No.  Well, technically, yes it will live, but you won't like it.  A crape myrtle planted in shade will be thin, leggy and won't bloom very well no matter how much fertilizer you throw at it.  It will also lean towards the sun, which doesn't make for a very attractive ornamental tree!

Growing Instructions-Spring and Summer

Here ya go! :-) 

Do you happen to have some of your own crape myrtle seeds you'd like to plant?  Or perhaps you need a copy of our Free Gift Instrctions?

Well, here ya go!

Free Seed Gift Growing Instructions

Pruning is traditionally done in winter, late spring, or any time they are dormant.  At this time it is the least stressful for the plant.  It also encourages new green growth in spring.  Since crape myrtles only flower on new growth, this increases your flower yield.

Technically yes, it's just a little more stressful for the plant.  Pruning when they're in an active state of growth makes a wound that the plant will have to spend energy healing.  This will slow down the production of new green growth and may also slow flowering.  Also, pruning when in an active state of growth leaves the plant vulnerable to infection, such as gall, etc.  But sometimes you gotta prune when you gotta prune.  In these cases, protect the cuts with any number of horticultural pruning products from acrylic paint to neem oil.  More than likely the plant will be just fine if you didn't put anything on the cuts, but better safe than sorry.

Let me guess, you pruned your crape myrtle over winter, giving it the perfect shape, and now your neighbor's shaggy, ugly plant has lots of new green growth while yours is still naked.  Don't panic!  You didn't do anything wrong, and you certainly didn't kill your plant.  Keep the soil lightly moist and new growth will come.  One day it will be naked and the next (no exageration), it will be covered in a million tiny branches, each promising a flower cluster this summer.  When you see the new green growth, begin your regular fertilization regimen and increase watering if you're in a dry spell.  By summer your neighbor is going to be asking YOU what you did to make such a beautiful tree.

"Crape Murder" is a peculiar term used to describe the aggressive pruning of a crape myrtle.  We're sure you've seen this, especially by lazy landscapers.  It's when you littlerally chop off about 75%+ of a giant tree, removing branches 2, 3 or even 8in thick with a chain saw.  Yes, it's a fast way to prune them, and yes they'll probably survive.  But it's an awful stress on the poor tree and will undoubtedly eventually lead to infection, dehydration and death. When you cut a branch that's, lets say, 6in in diameter, the new branches that grow will only be about 1-2in thick (if you're lucky), and a few feet long.  So you'll end up with an unsightly stump with these sad struggling branches trying their best to produce enough food to sustain a large tree.  These branches simply can't make enough food for the tree (no matter how much you fertilize it), so large portions of the tree trunk will dry up and die in an effort of self preservation.  

Sometimes aggressive pruning is a necessary evil.  Let's say you have to remove giant branches to prevent them from falling on your house, or an aggravating neighbor cuts down the part of a giant crape myrtle that had the nerve to grow naturally over their property line.  What's the old saying...shit happens.  

First, address the wounds to prevent/decrease dehydration.  Neem oil, mineral oil, paint, anything to form a water tight surface to keep in moisture and prevent pathogens from entering the tree.  It doesn't need to last a long time, the tree is going to form it's own scab fairly quickly.  Then it's time to water.  Water it just like it was just planted: 2-3 times a week.  Do this for about 3-4 weeks.  Then fertilize a foot or two inside where it's drip line would have been.  The shock of the damage is going to make the roots contract a little bit, so let's get the fertilizer where we know it can be absorbed.  Then continue watering once a week or so.  You may be able to fertilize again in a month, depending on the time remaining in the active growing season.  Then, over winter, don't prune it if possible.  You can remove a little if there's an oddly shaped, weird or diseased branch or two.  Let it wake up as usual in spring and begin regular fertilization and watering.  By the following summer you'll see a whole new tree with very little evidence of attempted herbicide.  Crape myrtles really are quite resilient.  With time and a little extra care it will recover just fine.

See our Pruning page for helpful info and diagrams.  A picture is worth a thousand words.

"Dead Heading" is a oddly morbid term refering to the removal of spent flower clusters before they have a chance to go to seed.  "Dead heading" is done in summer and encourages a second round of flowers.  Where the old flower cluster was cut will typically send out two new branches, each with a smaller flower cluster. 

This isn't a requirement though.  Most crape myrtles will continue to flower well into fall even if spent flower clusters are allowed to go to seed, especially with a regular fertilization regimen.  Besides, leaving some seed pods to form and dry out will feed lots of tiny birds over winter, and you can even sprout any seeds you may catch next spring.

Interior branches, are just that: branches that are on the interior part of the tree.  These are normally branches, small in diameter that criss cross over larger branches.  These branches normally don't receive enough sunlight due to the growth of the canopy.  They normally grow a few leaves, and sometimes have a flower cluster if they're long enough to reach a sunny spot.  But they're unnecessary.  They take away valuable resources from the rest of the productive tree.  So removing these branches will allow the plant to focus it's energy on the main trunks and branches that receive enough sunlight to produce ample food and flowers.  

Nope, not at all.  They've successfully evolved over God knows how long without humans pruning them, so we're pretty sure they'll be just fine now.  Letting a crape myrtle grow naturally is a beautiful thing.  They're always quite thick and full of flower clusters.  Letting them grow naturally is also a great way to make a thick privacy hedge.  As long as they receive adequate moisture and just a little fertilizer now and then they'll be covered in flowers. 

Pruning them does encourage new green growth and is an easy way to ensure they flower.  The flower clusters also tend to be larger and the new green growth tends to be thicker and more substantial on a regularly pruned tree. 

We get asked this question a lot.  If you have a mounding/weeping type, simply prune off spent flower clusters and try to trim each branch several inches from the tips.  This holds true for crape myrtles in hanging baskets, pots and plants as well.  Give them a nice mounding shape.  Keep in mind that where each cut is made the plant will more than likely send out multiple branching, doubling your flowers and becoming a very thick plant.  When you prune once and you see the result the following summer you're going to get a very good idea as to what to prune off in the future.  And like hair, if you cut off too much it WILL GROW BACK! 

Well, not much right now.  But don't worry, once a crape myrtle is established they're nearly impossible to kill.  Continue your normal care in spring as if you had perfectly pruned it.  Fertilize regularly and water when it's thristy.  You may very well discover that you pruned it exactly right.  It will flush out with lots of new green growth and produce oodles of flowers in summer.  Or....it may look a little lopsided.  In any case, it's a learning experience.  What's the old saying...."there are no mistakes in gardening, only experiments!"

We exclusively use UPS Ground.  It's simply the fastest, safest and most reliable.  

We've tried USPS.  It did not end well.  They're exactly as efficient as the government.  And Lord help us if we put a "Fragile, Live Plant" sticker on the box.  We're pretty sure that's code for "use me as a soccer ball."

We've tried FedEx.  It did not end well.  We'll admit, most of the time it gets to the correct city/town, but after that there's no telling where it will end up.  In fact, we've been receiving our neighbor's Chewy purchases via FedEx for years now.  Fortunately, they're friends of ours and only live a few blocks over.  The monthly deliveries we get for them (and yes, it's to their address, not ours), gives us a chance to chit chat, which is nice.

So UPS it is!

Unfortunately, no.  UPS doesn't deliver to PO Boxes, so it has to be a physical address.  

But we've noticed that UPS will contract with USPS to finish deliveries, so why they don't deliver to PO Boxes, the world may never know.

We are indeed one of the few nurseries licensed and certified to export plants internationally (and I have personally exported to China, Vietnam, Kuwait, Dubai and Italy).  However, it is EXTREMELY complex.  Each country has their own rules and import permits, which have to be obtained and translated into English.  Some countries, such as those in the EU currently prohibit the import of lagerstroemia indica (normal crape myrtles).  Others prohibit soil or growing medium, while others require months long quaratines (not very good for live plants). 

And then there's the requirements of the US government.  Phytosanitary certifications, licenses, inspections, tarriff codes, validation of the international import permit, assignment of an export permit, etc.  It goes on and on.  

We cannot offer quantity discounts and there is no free shipping.  The minimum order is $20,000USD, not including shipping.  Shipping ranges from $5,000-$20,000kUSD.  Prepayment is required and it takes upwards of 3 months to prepare.  Plants are normally in transit for 10 days (which is no problem).  But your country may hold them in quarantine for any number of reasons, for any amount of time.  Once they leave the US, power of attorney has been transfered to the international shipping country via UPS (normally to DHL), and it is out of our control.  

Try to support your country and buy locally, or purchase seeds online.  

We are licensed and certified to ship live plants in pots WITH growing medium (soil), to all the lower 48 States in the US.  We cannot ship to HI, Puerto Rico, the USVI or Guam.  

Yes, we can even ship to CA.  We do it all the time.

Shipping is FREE for orders over $150.

But, keep an eye on your order total.  We offer automatic quantity discounts.  You may order enough plants to qualify for free shipping, but with the discounts it drops the total price below $150.  In this case, the easiest (and most fun), thing to do is simply add another plant or two to your order. 

Otherwise, shipping is automatically calculated by UPS on the checkout screen.

Shipping is FREE for orders over $150.

But, keep an eye on your order total.  As we offer automatic quantity discounts, you may order enough plants to qualify for free shipping, but with the discounts it drops the total price below $150.  In this case, the easiest (and most fun), thing to do is simply add another plant or two to your order. 

We take packing and shipping very seriously.  So there's not a catch-all answer.  

Each plant has it's own shape and size.  And most of the time we ship several different plants together in the same order.  We take the individual requirements of each plant into consideration.  Is it tall and upright, or is it shorter than it is wide?  Would the plant ship better with a stake or a plant collar?  How can we minimize moisture loss via traspiration during shipping?  How can we minimize leaf drop (nearly impossible)?  

Each order is packed on an individual basis.  Sure, it takes longer, but that's what we'd expect if we ordered plants online.  We will NOT be shoving the plants in a box with mounds of crumpled up paper sucking the moisture out of their leaves.  Will there be packing paper?  Maybe, only if structure is needed in a certain area.  Will there be an entire roll of tape used for each box?  I certainly hope not, what a mess that would be.  Will there be a plant stake for rigidity?  Sure, if needed.  

This is what we guarantee:

• Plants will be shipped MOIST with a plastic bag around the pot to retain moisture and decreasing leaf drop.
• They will NEVER be shipped bareroot.  
• Each plant will be securely fastened to a NEW box (we do not reuse boxes).
• Each plant will be CLEARLY labeled so there will be zero confusion.
• They will reach their new home SAFE and sound, ready to be planted.
• Growing instructions will ALWAYS be included.

Your order will be picked, graded and moved to the shipping area 48-72hrs of being placed. 

It will ship within 3-5 business days.  We often beat these these times as we strive to get orders picked and shipped as quickly as possible.  But we are a small, family owned business.  When Spring and Summer planting rolls around, we may run a bit behind.  You can always check the status of your order on our website.  Or Contact Us for more detailed infromation.  When we order plants online we want to know when they're going to arrive too (it's exciting), so don't be shy if you have a question.

If for any reason it's not a good idea for you to receive your plants within this time frame (it's too cold where you are, we're not confident they'll thrive at a particular time of year, etc), we will contact you via email to make alternative arrangements.  

Some orders, such as those placed during our Black Friday Sale, will automatically be scheduled to ship at the appropriate time for planting in your area.  In this case, we will contact you via email to confirm the shipping date.

After your order has been packed and shipped with a UPS tracking number, it will take 1-5 business days for you receive your new beauties.  Once you receive the UPS tracking email from us, give them a couple hours for it to populate in their system.  

Watering is VERY location specific.  A grower in the deserts of NV will have different watering needs than someone in WA.  

As a general rule, thoroughly water 2-3 times a week for the first 6 weeks after planting.  Crape myrtles love water but they don't like wet feet so it's improtant to give them a chance to drain in between.

So let's say you're in Las Vegas in the middle of summer.  You're going to have to water everyday, thoroughly, in the evening so the moisture has a chance to reach the roots before it's leeched away by the surrounding soil or evaporates.  

Now let's say you're in Seattle in the rainy season.  You're not going to have to water at all.  In fact, you're going to have to make sure they're planted somewhere with good drainage and standing water.

Oddly enough, the first symptom of over watering is the same as under watering.  It will wilt.  So if you plant is wilted, your first instinct will be to add more water.  But before you do that, take your finger and stick it a couple inches into the soil.  Is the soil moist?  If so don't water.  Is the soil moist and hot?  Don't water, it will perk up when the sun goes down.  

The first sign will be wilting (which is also the first sign of over watering).  You may also see brown leaf edges or curling.  Stick your finger a couple inches into the soil.  If it's dry give it a nice thorough drink of water in the evening.  This will help prevent evaporation and give the plant plenty of time to rehydrate over night.  It should be much happier by morning.

Nah, it will be just fine.  We can't help what Mother Nature decides to do and when.  As long as it's not in standing water for days at a time there's no need to worry.  However, if it stops raining for a couple days and you plant looks like it's in the middle of a small pond, then it would be a good idea to move it to a place that has better drainage.

Like everything else, ideal planting time is location specific. 

In zones 8-10 you can plant any time, even in winter.  Keep the soil lightly moist and they'll wake up right on time in spring. 

In zone 7, to err on the side of caution, plant after your average last frost. Normally you can plant them in fall in zone 7, but your run the risk of Mother Nature throwing a curve ball at you by having a harsh winter.  In this case the top growth might die back, but the roots are still alive and will thrive in spring.

In zone 6 (even 5), plant in early summer, which is typically after your last frost.  This gives them ample time to root and become established.  If growing in zone 6 (or 5), we highly recommend reading our Growing in Northern Climates page.

It varies.  Some winters are mild, some are God awful cold.  The Farmer's Almanac has the most accurate and up to date database regarding average first and last frosts.

Check out The Farmer's Almanac page, enter your zip code and find your average last frost date.

Yes, they are.  BUT (there's always a but), crape myrtles are different depending on your location.  In zones 8-10 you can plant anytime, including fall or winter.  In zone 7, you could get away with fall planting.  But be mindful, if a harsh winter occurs the top growth MAY die back.  As a result the plants would sprout from the roots in spring.  In fall planting in zone 6, the top growth will almost certainly die back over winter.  It probably won't kill the plant, as they too will come back from the roots in spring.  In zone 5 (tough growing, but 100% possible), planting in fall or winter will more than likely kill them.  You may have one or two that come back from the roots, but it's not worth losing the time, effort and money to plant this time of year.